31 December 2008

Internet Limit

I think I'm going to hold off on doing regular posts and daily updates, because that's twice we've run out of bandwidth or whatever. Internet costs a lot and doesn't go very far here, so I'm not going to impose myself on my hosts like that.

I get to see the other side of 2009 8 hours before my family! HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
Probably going to AJ's friend's place near the waterfront to watch fireworks.

29 December 2008

Day 15 - Century City

There is a suburb of Cape Town called Century City (so named because it was built in 2000) which "was constructed as a mixed use development conforming to the "new urbanism" of creating integrated neighbourhoods including entertainment, residential, retail and office components". It's a pretty ritzy area, lots of glitz and glam, you can almost feel money running through it.

Inside Century City is a shopping mall called Canal Walk, which is where we went today, again on a quest to find an elusive CD. I didn't get to really see much, much less stop and take pictures, except for a potentially luxuriant trot along the canal itself. We breezed through the shops, had an ill fated encounter with the bank, snatched a CD (got mom her Xmas present - the new Jason Mraz CD... but I got it IN South Africa!), bought some food at the grocery, and shot out of there.

I did get a few photos.


Apparently when they built the mall (which by the way is the biggest one on the African continent, apparently - compared to the average American mall, it's nice and pretty huge, but not enormous - not that I spend lots of time in malls so maybe I can't compare) they were trying for a theme of "inside a space ship" or something, and had lots of these funny statues all around. Hmm...



Ah! Now THIS is what I travelled a bajillion miles for! McDonald's and KFC. I still need to go into one of these places and compare the menu to the American one.

If you're really sensitive to being Politically Correct, shut down for just a minute. I find it amusing (and perhaps faintly concerning?) that there is KFC freaking EVERYWHERE in Cape Town. Isn't there a racist stereotype about black people in America loving fried chicken? Apparently this is not a completely false perception?? lol okay, I'll be good.





"South Africa's giant play park!"



This is a picture of the Prayer Room. It's for the Muslim workers.

I wanted to take a moment to just point out something. Apartheid. I imagine anyone who knows anything about South Africa knows that word. Institutionalized Apartness. The big Race Thing.

I'm coming to understand more and more that Apartheid only ended less than 15 years ago. Fifteen. When I was born, this country was still keeping "blacks" and "whites" (and others) apart with laws. It's quite a thing, because in America, Martin Luther King and all that went through decades ago. Our country has come a LONG way since then, and even still we struggle with racism. We've torn up the big ugly weeds, but the roots of segregation are still underground where we have to get our hands dirty to get at them.

This country has problems; big ones. But there is hope. There is a huge, enormous amount of POTENTIAL here. I feel it. Like someone threaded a wire right through me when I landed here, hooking me up to every person I encounter. God is a great electrician, making all the right connections and setting up breakers, and setting up to turn on a seriously powerful current that I think is going to light up the world.

I took this photo on Day 2. It's of a halal food take away. I'm still amazed to see them all over the place. It's an awesome thing to me, I don't even known exactly how to describe it. Here, Islam is commonplace. It's in the food on the side of the street. That speaks VOLUMES to me, though I still don' t know how to express it. But I keep coming back to this picture and trying to figure out what it's saying to me...



Eleven official languages. There's so much room here.

28 December 2008

Day 14 - Braai en Afrikaans Cultie

I realized this morning that I am halfway through my visit here. I do have just over two weeks to go, and believe me I'm making the most of it, but a lot has already happened, inside and out. I know I haven't been out to the townships yet, handing out AIDS packages or teaching half-starved big-eyed African children to count or anything as picturesque as that. In fact, I've had a fairly sheltered experience.

Plenty of time to get dirt under my fingernails. Even so, I feel there's a lot for me to process... so this morning I decided to fast. I drank a glass of water after I got up but ultimately skipped breakfast.

I've fasted before, but not often, and I don't have any sort of set routine, and today was a new thing because I didn't really plan to do this, I just woke up and realized it was what I would do... so for example... Tony found out yesterday he didn't have to preach today so we all went to AJ's [Anglican] church this morning... so we had Eucharist. I didn't know how to fit that into my fasting, so I just took it.

THEN, to throw another curve ball at me, there was a tea afterwards, AND not JUST tea, but because a baby was baptized today they had special cakes with the tea. I didn't know what to make of this. (Um, God? Are you playing silly buggers with me or what? I mean really? I'm fasting, and you put out tea and cakes?!) Well, I was fine actually, despite the yawning feeling in my belly I just had a second cup of tea and told Tony he could have my slice of chocolate cake.

Then I remembered we were going to a braai this afternoon.

We went to Madre's mother's place in... pshaw, me and names, I tell you what! (Madre is Steven's girlfriend, the girl I didn't get to know well on Christmas, and I'm probably spelling her name wrong) Anyway, we had to drive out there.

In case you haven't caught on, braai is a South African thing, particularly Afrikaans, and it's like a barbecue. No, it is a barbecue. With a particular culture surrounding it of course. (For example, I think it would be very heretical to use propane or gas to cook with at a braai. Smoking the meat with the wood and charcoal is the key.)

Madre and her family are Afrikaner. (ie. AJ and his family are not, although I learned today Tony comes from that background). I'm seeing more and more that Afrikaans culture is actually VERY similar, parallels in many ways, classic "Texan"...

So anyway, when we got there it was Steven and Madre again, and Emille was there as well... and Madre's mother, mother's boyfriend George, and his daughter something-or-other. (I think the mother's name was Maggie?)

I endeared myself immediately. (I have this cute face, you see, and a fatefully charming nature as well.) Shortly after arriving I realized I had left my camera batteries back at the Bethke house charging in the wall, so was told to ask Madre to help me find some. She asked "how many batteries did you need?"

"Twee" I replied, the blood immediatley rushing to my face in emberassment, especially when I realized her mum was behind me and grabbed my shoulder in excitement. "What did you say?" "Twee?" I repeated, less confidently. But their friendly laughter was encouraging. I had 'done good' as one might say in Tom Green county. Unfortunately the blood roaring in my blushing ears made me completely miss her next phrase, which is probably the only sentence I should be able to immediately recognize and respond to appropriately in Afrikaans. "Hoe gaan dit met jou?" ("How are you?" or more literally "How goes it with you?") She probably repeated herself four or five times for I finally choked out. "Ah! GOED! Ek is well!"

And that was pretty much it. They teased me off and on the rest of the day, but I think I kept what tiny vocabulary I do have a pretty good secret from everyone. As far as the Bethke's knew, the only words I could say were "baia dankie" "jaa" and "koppie en piering" ("thank you very much" "yes" and "cup and saucer"). HA! Fooled them. I ALSO know how to say "good" "I'm well" and "sorry, I'm from America, I have no etiquette" ("Jammer, ek is van Amerika, ek het nie etiquette nie!")

The last I had to say when, when offered more food, I gave an enthusiastic "nee!" instead of "Nee dankie." Earned me a smack on the back of the head and a good hearted scolding from my new "ouma" (grandmother).

I have a feeling I am welcome back at that house anytime I feel like it.

Oh, and the braai was wonderful too! Unfortunately it kind of slipped my mind that fasting meant I hadn't actually eaten anything yet, so when Steven asked me what I wanted to drink I told him I wasn't thirsty, so to give me whatever was appropriate. He gave me a beer. Very appropro to the braai setting (I kind of felt like Jane Goodall getting groomed by her gorillas when die ouens literally shuffled around to let me into the magic circle around the fire - the inevitable "OMG I'm IN!") .

Beer does nothing for me, even on an empty stomach, BUT it did set the stage for a bit of tiddliness when I moved on to a glass of wine. I had to hold the wall up for a little while. Still, even then I was the only one who noticed. (Even so, fasting+alcohol=stupid.)

Finally it was time to eat. I found a private corner around the back and prayed for I don't know how long. I didn't feel I could very well insult the hospitality being offered here (not at my very first braai!) and besides, I was hungry as hell after the delicious smells had come to meet me, so God and I had a bit of a talk and then I went to join everyone.

It was bloody delicious! Even the boerwoers, which had me a little on edge from the beginning, went down really nicely.

All in all it was a really wonderful visit. I think we were there for a little more than three and a half hours. It started pouring rain while we were eating, which is quite unusual for this time of the year, but really really homely for me. I wanted to go stand out in it, but didn't think the Bethkes would appreciate having a sopping wet Limey-American in the back seat for the drive home.

So to my brother Mat, who is just as interested in outdoor grilling experiences as I am... AWESOME! Hierdie was 'n baie wonderlik ondervinding!

Tony took some photos, so I'll get copies of those and post them later. if I get 'round to it. I'll do it "just now" in fact. lol

27 December 2008

waiting on Braai

At last! Tomorrow I get to go to my first braai! I can't wait to penetrate this great mystery of South African culture!

Reflection

I have plenty of photos and lots to tell you about from the last several days. However, all of that's going to be superficial. What I did, when and where I did it, and some little blurb about it with a handful of photos.

That's great, for a vacation blog, but this journey is so much more than a vacation. It's a journey. It's SEVERAL journeys in fact.

And today I felt... some very powerful feelings. Feelings that seemed deeper than just emotions, (although there have been a lot of those). In fact, "deep" was the word that came to mind. I felt like I had just scratched the surface off something, and tapped it, and a deep echo came back to me...

Obviously too much is going on to put into words at the moment, but I'm sure I'll have lots to say by the end of all this.

26 December 2008

Day 12 - V&A Waterfront in Daylight

On Day 6 I got to see the V&A Waterfront at night. Today we went to see it in the day, this time with Tony and Erica and [the woman who was sitting next to AJ at Christmas*]. I think our main goal was to visit a CD shoppe in a quest to find a certain album, but I don't know.

Note: I'm posting this from nearly a week later on so my memory of this day is kind of blurry. We must not have done terribly much. I remember a lot of the conversation had to do with banks and money and general complaining about the way things are run.


There were some fantastic shops in the Red Roof craft market. This was a giant beaded warthog! (Who would want such a thing in their home, I wonder? Apparently this one is Pumba, and there was a "Timone" ie. meerkat and three baby Pumbas that had already been sold. Wild!)

Here are these statues again, great figures of South African history. I feel very warm to this little set of statues. I like their size and pose. They seem real, not too regal or overly displayed. Just there. I think this is a GREAT tribute to some very worthy, yet humble men.

A busker playing a home-made guitar (made from an oil can).

More buskers!

A pirate ship is coming in to dock!

I got in trouble in one of the shops for taking pictures of the merchandise. Oh well. Cute figurines though!

View from the bridge over the canal. A very "African" looking hill, I think. Those buildings in the forefront represent some of the most expensive real estate in all of Africa.

South Africans like to keep their children occupied in strange ways...
Actually, it looked really fun, and I kind of wanted to try it. That's one way to keep the kiddies busy and exercised!

A seal swam under the bridge at one point. Yay wildlife!

And the clocktower, with an EXPENSIVE touristy shopping center behind it.

Also where you go to book trips out to Robben Island, but I'm told it's either not running at the moment, or not worth the trip. Shame that.

*I'm going to sit down with the Bethkes before I leave and have them fill in all the blanks for me. Sometimes I don't catch names, sometimes I'm too afraid to try and spell them or say them myself, so I just leave blanks until then.

prezzies

Just thought I'd share some of the Xmas presents that went down here.

Of presents I've bought, an mbira, a wooden frog that "croaks", I'm bringing some coins home to give to people, and I bought some special African brewers yeast for my friend Mike (who actually brews mead, not beer, but I thought he'd appreciate the thought at least).



And a very special African clergy shirt for my dad!

I still have to get some things I've thought of for other friends.

The Bethkes actually gave me some presents, which I wasn't expecting. Cheeky AJ purchased my little stocking stuffers right in front of me at the craft market! A little wire lizard, a little guitar made from recycled aluminum, and a tiny beaded South African flag keychain. He also got me a Kenyan maasai warrior. (It's a beautiful graceful statue.) The Bethkes got me a thing of assorted munchies (half of which I unfortunately can't eat!! :{ ) and a book of amusing quotes, and Erica got me this book "Facing the Storm" which contains meditations and prayers. Apparently some lady from one of the churches named Carol got me a present too. Some very nice shower gel. (Do I stink?? lol)

And that was very sweet of them.

Of course the best present of all is this trip. A huge thank-you to my mom and dad for buying my tickets, and for just allowing me to go. This is their first Christmas without their firstborn present.

25 December 2008

Day 11 - Christmas

Christmas here started last night at Sundown. I went with AJ to midnight mass at St. Stephen's. It was nice, though I got a little overly nervous about taking Eucharist. We didn't get back until Oh-God-It's-Late-O-Clock, after driving that dear lady Kath and her great-granddaughter home.

This morning I awoke around 7am to the sound of someone knocking on my door. Actually, it wasn't the knocking that woke me; the sound pierced my subconscious and I said something, but what actually woke me was the feel of the blanket strangling me - apparently I wrapped it around my head when Erica knocked. *shrug* I was obviously delirious.

Lovely home-made-from-scratch orange cinnamon rolls for breakfast! Wow, better than Pillsbury's!



I went to an early morning service with Erica and Tony, and was once again warmly received. I helped Erica with the powerpoint for the service, so they were particularly grateful to have me. As my dad would point out later, it's amazing how God puts things together in this world, and places people just where they're needed. I learned to do this stuff at a Methodist camp in Oklahoma years and years ago... and now I'm employing it at a Methodist church in South Africa. Amazing!

We got back around 10:30 and began to slowly draw ourselves out of a stupor and make Christmas lunch, which consisted of all cold foods.


Oh, and Aj looked quite festive!


Doesn't it look delicious? Cold cuts of chicken and honeyed ham, plus an incredible salad, lentils, breaded stuffing, slice of avocado pears, coleslaw... and I'm forgetting what else. And a truly amazing dry white wine to wash it all down with. (I don't usually like dry wine, but that because it's usually dry CRAP, if you know what I mean...)

Compared to the way my family has its tree, this was really tiny. Yet it was absolutely perfect. The little fiber-optic tree was lovingly decorated and admired every single night, and the gifts under it were chosen with special care and attention.



Andrew-John's older brother Steven came, with his Afrikaaner [girlfriend?]. I liked Steven a lot; he's witty and fun, much like the rest of the family, with a special whip-crack to his jokes. I didn't get to know the young lady very well, but we're invited to her [some kind of tertiary relative's] home on Sunday for a Braai!


Awww.

Admiring my Christmas gift...
;)

Erika showing off a gift made to the family. (She looked really stunning in her holiday getup, I must say!)

Oh, and a family friend of their Emille! (Not sure on the spelling there.) This guy is a fascinating character. He's a clinical psychologist with some really moving stories to tell. I liked him right away, because we set the tone for the afternoon by arguing together against the others over the pronunciation of "tinnitus". (Is it tin-EYE-tuss or tinn-i-tus, long or short "I"?)

I'm kind of getting tired of being pinned for all things "American" (the implication then being that America is inferior) but I guess I kind of signed up for that when I became the snap-happy tourist. I do the same to my own guests; live and learn, and take it on the chin. I'm here for your enjoyment too, guys! :)


There were even a few presents for me as well! I got a bit teary about that. They really didn't have to, and I wasn't expecting anything. More on my gifts another time though.

After opening presents it was time for dessert!

Mmmm! If you don't know, the one in the middle is Christmas pudding. The one on the right in the big bowl is a trifle! They are both DELICIOUS!!



Emille says he's fine, he's got all the dessert he wants!

LOL, so naturally we all overdid it and had to spend the next several hours digesting in the sitting room in the sunlight.

Unfortunately I had a little accident and spilled some lemonade behind the couch. I felt awful about that, but everyone was fairly good natured. Otherwise, the rest of the afternoon passed beautifully.

I need to Skype-call my family soon though.

24 December 2008

Day 10 - of film, food, and mocha

Last night we watched a film called The Angel, The Bicycle, and the Chinaman's Finger, an adorable and brilliant South African film.

A gentle, hilarious South African gem that deserves more attention. On the brink of the country's transformation (from an Apartheid dictatorship to a democracy), South Africa's economy hangs in the balance. An overseas conglomerate wishes to invest a great deal of cash in the country, but the executives demand evidence of the country's willingness to integrate its racially diverse population and move forward. A tiny backwater village is selected at random and the local post office's staff commanded to produce a play - with multiracial cast and crew - in time for the foreigners' visit. Only one single, solitary play script is to be found in the local library... Can the townsfolk of the mythical Karoo village resolve their differences and present a workable production of The Nativity in time to save their country? Starring the inimitable Ellis Pearson and Greg Melville-Smith and written by Theatre For Africa's Nicholas Ellenbogen, this film is a rare treat – see it if you can get your sticky paws on a copy.
-Internet Movie Database

I still have stitches from laughing so hard! Funny, moving, deep and insightful yet balanced, with some really catchy musical bits (but NOT the way you're thinking, I tell you what). I wonder if I can get a copy to take home. Anyway, great to see something fresh in the way of "Christmas movies", as it were.

There are some things about food I've wanted to talk about, but every time I sit down to write I get excited! I'm mad about food, you should know. (Truly, the way to a man's heart is through his stomach. Also, if we should share food upon our first meeting we will be friends for life.)

We made Christmas pudding a few days ago; and by "we" I mean Erica of course. But there's a lovely tradition here I've never encountered before where you make a wish as you stir the pudding, so we all got to take part in that. (Apparently Tony made three wishes. I made a long one, but not telling what it is!)

This morning I woke up to find the kitchen a busy place, as a couple of busy bees were hard at work making mince pies!






Delicious! They go down really well with a hot cup of Rooibos tea sweetened with Lyle's golden syrup.

*death by food-gasm!*


And finally, I just happened to be contacted recently by someone from an organization called Mocha Club, which I've been a very peripheral part of for several months now. Mocha Club works on the premise that for $7 a month, the approximate price of two mochas from Starbucks...


^Click!^

The other idea is that if you join and invite others to the club, if you had as many of your friends in as you have say, Facebook friends... imagine how many people's lives would be different.

Anyway, come to find out there are some Mocha Club projects here in Cape Town, though they seem to be on hiatus for the holiday, so I will try and check them out before I leave in January. I'd definitely like to take a moment to encourage you to check out the project and consider contributing to a very worthy cause as well.


And that's all from me for now. Going to a midnight mass tonight so... Merry Christmas everyone!

23 December 2008

Day 9 - City center, and rain on the market

This morning I went early with Tony to the center of the city to pick up a certain Christmas present for a certain someone. ;)

While there I got to see the town hall and this thing called The Castle which is an actual castle in fact, an old military stronghold complete with moat and all. We just happened to come back through during the changing of the guard! We also passed by this place called District 6, which is ripe with Apartheid history. Tony is really great about pointing out interesting and important sites and features and telling me about them along the way.

Photos and all to come - again, I'm kind of knackered and I have to re-size them all and whatnot before they can be posted.

I hope to go out again to the craft market this evening and pick up some souvenirs. Right now I have to take care of the exotic African task of... picking up my laundry and putting it away!

Update: Alright, photos!


A shot of the beautiful [Victorian?] building that is Cape Town City Hall.

Shot of the castle, with the moat in the foreground.

I think these are supposed to represent the various occupants of the castle over time. Looks like the flags are Dutch, English, French, English, old South African, and new South African.

If I do say so myself, a great splice of two photos showing the fort with Table Mountain perfectly framed in the background. Gorgeous!

Changing of the guard.

And me... with a canon.

Well! Not much more one can say about that I suppose...

Also, in the end we (just AJ and I this time) made it back to the craft market. I really like that place! The first stall we passed had some beautiful cushion covers, though I couldn't justify paying that much for something I wasn't sure I could use... It was funny, as we walked away from her stall Aj started to say something, then stopped and laughed. "I was going to say something to you in Afrikaans but well..." I told him to tell me anyway and he said something about the woman not being from South Africa... Makes me feel good that he would have that impulse. Don't worry! Soon enough I'll have absorbed enough of that language, and probably several others. It's so refreshing to walk around and everywhere I go hear a difficult tongue.

Anyway, made a few lesser purchases, and I have decided I'm not going to bring home a plant, seeing as that's going to consist of TOOOOOO much paperwork!

The sky has been dark the last two days and it started to rain softly. So funny to hear the mutterings of many stall-keepers. I enjoyed it; it's a homely sort of rain that made me feel fresh and alive.

Have you ever noticed how when it rains all of the senses are heightened? The smell of rain, the feel of it kissing your skin, the taste of it, the sound of it drumming a tattoo on different surfaces... :)

No photos of course; I wouldn't risk getting the camera wet.

22 December 2008