28 December 2008

Day 14 - Braai en Afrikaans Cultie

I realized this morning that I am halfway through my visit here. I do have just over two weeks to go, and believe me I'm making the most of it, but a lot has already happened, inside and out. I know I haven't been out to the townships yet, handing out AIDS packages or teaching half-starved big-eyed African children to count or anything as picturesque as that. In fact, I've had a fairly sheltered experience.

Plenty of time to get dirt under my fingernails. Even so, I feel there's a lot for me to process... so this morning I decided to fast. I drank a glass of water after I got up but ultimately skipped breakfast.

I've fasted before, but not often, and I don't have any sort of set routine, and today was a new thing because I didn't really plan to do this, I just woke up and realized it was what I would do... so for example... Tony found out yesterday he didn't have to preach today so we all went to AJ's [Anglican] church this morning... so we had Eucharist. I didn't know how to fit that into my fasting, so I just took it.

THEN, to throw another curve ball at me, there was a tea afterwards, AND not JUST tea, but because a baby was baptized today they had special cakes with the tea. I didn't know what to make of this. (Um, God? Are you playing silly buggers with me or what? I mean really? I'm fasting, and you put out tea and cakes?!) Well, I was fine actually, despite the yawning feeling in my belly I just had a second cup of tea and told Tony he could have my slice of chocolate cake.

Then I remembered we were going to a braai this afternoon.

We went to Madre's mother's place in... pshaw, me and names, I tell you what! (Madre is Steven's girlfriend, the girl I didn't get to know well on Christmas, and I'm probably spelling her name wrong) Anyway, we had to drive out there.

In case you haven't caught on, braai is a South African thing, particularly Afrikaans, and it's like a barbecue. No, it is a barbecue. With a particular culture surrounding it of course. (For example, I think it would be very heretical to use propane or gas to cook with at a braai. Smoking the meat with the wood and charcoal is the key.)

Madre and her family are Afrikaner. (ie. AJ and his family are not, although I learned today Tony comes from that background). I'm seeing more and more that Afrikaans culture is actually VERY similar, parallels in many ways, classic "Texan"...

So anyway, when we got there it was Steven and Madre again, and Emille was there as well... and Madre's mother, mother's boyfriend George, and his daughter something-or-other. (I think the mother's name was Maggie?)

I endeared myself immediately. (I have this cute face, you see, and a fatefully charming nature as well.) Shortly after arriving I realized I had left my camera batteries back at the Bethke house charging in the wall, so was told to ask Madre to help me find some. She asked "how many batteries did you need?"

"Twee" I replied, the blood immediatley rushing to my face in emberassment, especially when I realized her mum was behind me and grabbed my shoulder in excitement. "What did you say?" "Twee?" I repeated, less confidently. But their friendly laughter was encouraging. I had 'done good' as one might say in Tom Green county. Unfortunately the blood roaring in my blushing ears made me completely miss her next phrase, which is probably the only sentence I should be able to immediately recognize and respond to appropriately in Afrikaans. "Hoe gaan dit met jou?" ("How are you?" or more literally "How goes it with you?") She probably repeated herself four or five times for I finally choked out. "Ah! GOED! Ek is well!"

And that was pretty much it. They teased me off and on the rest of the day, but I think I kept what tiny vocabulary I do have a pretty good secret from everyone. As far as the Bethke's knew, the only words I could say were "baia dankie" "jaa" and "koppie en piering" ("thank you very much" "yes" and "cup and saucer"). HA! Fooled them. I ALSO know how to say "good" "I'm well" and "sorry, I'm from America, I have no etiquette" ("Jammer, ek is van Amerika, ek het nie etiquette nie!")

The last I had to say when, when offered more food, I gave an enthusiastic "nee!" instead of "Nee dankie." Earned me a smack on the back of the head and a good hearted scolding from my new "ouma" (grandmother).

I have a feeling I am welcome back at that house anytime I feel like it.

Oh, and the braai was wonderful too! Unfortunately it kind of slipped my mind that fasting meant I hadn't actually eaten anything yet, so when Steven asked me what I wanted to drink I told him I wasn't thirsty, so to give me whatever was appropriate. He gave me a beer. Very appropro to the braai setting (I kind of felt like Jane Goodall getting groomed by her gorillas when die ouens literally shuffled around to let me into the magic circle around the fire - the inevitable "OMG I'm IN!") .

Beer does nothing for me, even on an empty stomach, BUT it did set the stage for a bit of tiddliness when I moved on to a glass of wine. I had to hold the wall up for a little while. Still, even then I was the only one who noticed. (Even so, fasting+alcohol=stupid.)

Finally it was time to eat. I found a private corner around the back and prayed for I don't know how long. I didn't feel I could very well insult the hospitality being offered here (not at my very first braai!) and besides, I was hungry as hell after the delicious smells had come to meet me, so God and I had a bit of a talk and then I went to join everyone.

It was bloody delicious! Even the boerwoers, which had me a little on edge from the beginning, went down really nicely.

All in all it was a really wonderful visit. I think we were there for a little more than three and a half hours. It started pouring rain while we were eating, which is quite unusual for this time of the year, but really really homely for me. I wanted to go stand out in it, but didn't think the Bethkes would appreciate having a sopping wet Limey-American in the back seat for the drive home.

So to my brother Mat, who is just as interested in outdoor grilling experiences as I am... AWESOME! Hierdie was 'n baie wonderlik ondervinding!

Tony took some photos, so I'll get copies of those and post them later. if I get 'round to it. I'll do it "just now" in fact. lol

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